Bicycle Maintenance | Russ Hay's The Bicycle Shop

Advice From Russ | Maintenance | Helmets | Safety

Regular bike maintenance is the key to a more enjoyable bicycle experience and will ensure the longevity of your investment. Bicycles are run by cables, bearings, plates and other metal on metal mechanisms. Without regular cleaning, lubing, greasing and adjusting your bicycle will deteriorate very quickly.

You do not have to be a pro mechanic to perform most of the following maintenance procedures. Once you get familiar with these steps you will find that they take very little time.

Pre-ride Bike Inspection

1. Brakes

Check your brake lever freeplay. Once squeezed, your brake levers should move approximately 3/4 to 1-1/2 inches before engagement. You should be able to lock the wheels without having to pull the brake lever very close or all the way to the handlebar. Check your brake pads for wear and foreign objects embedded in them. If the pads are getting thin or are deteriorating, replace them before you ride. Inspect the brake cables to make sure they are free moving and not frayed.

If you have a hydraulic brake system consult your owner's manual or link to their respective web sites for technical information. If they do not "feel right" they probably have air in the lines and you should deal with this before you ride.

2. Tires

Use a pressure gauge to be sure your tires are within the recommended pressure range written on the sidewall of the tire. Check the tires for cuts, cracks, bulges and bald patches. Make sure that your brake pads do not make contact with the tire.

3. Wheels

Spin the wheels to check for trueness. Shake the wheels from side to side to make sure the hub bearings are not loose. Inspect the rims for dents, splits, dings and bulges. Feel the shape of the rim's sidewall to make sure that it is not significantly concave (curved inward). Once a rim bcomes concave it should be replaced immediately.

4. Handlebars, stem and headset

Stand in front of your bike with the front wheel between your legs. Attempt to twist the handlebars from side to side. If the stem can be moved, tighten it before you ride. Hold your brake levers and attempt to roll them forward and back. If bars or brake levers are loose, tighten them. Next, straddle your bike's top tube, squeeze the front brake and rock the bike in a pushpull manner. If you feel or hear a looseness or clunking from your headset bearings, tighten before you ride.

5. Chain

Spin your chain and inspect for any links that are frozen together. Spray frozen links with a citrus penetrating spray lube and work the chain side to side to free the corrosion that is holding the chain plates together. If the chain is dry, lube it!

6. Gears

With the rear wheel off the ground, spin the cranks and cycle through your gears. Make sure every gear is possible and that the chain does not fall off the rear cogs or the front chain rings. Visually inspect the rear derailleur to make sure it has not been bent in an accident. Even a few millimeters could cause the derailleur to over shift into the spokes of the rear wheel. If your rear derailleur hanger is replaceable and it has been bent, replace it.

7. Crank arms and bottom bracket bearings

Grab each crank arm and pull from side to side. If you feel any looseness, check the tightness of the crank bolts. Check again -- if the looseness persists then it is the bottom bracket which is loose and repair or replacement is needed.

8. Seat and seat post

Grab the seat and attempt to make the seat and/or post move up and down or side to side. Even if it's a little loose, tighten it before you ride. If you have a suspension seat post, it may be normal to have a little play or looseness, but suspension posts have adjustments to minimize this play.

9. Frame and forks

Inspect the frame for any impact damage or cracking around the welds. If you find any, replace or repair the frame, but DO NOT ride it. Do the same inspection for the forks.

If you have a full suspension frame you must check all pivot bolts for tightness. Also check your owner's manual or manufacturer's web site as full suspension pivots must be cleaned and lubricated on a very regular basis.

If you have suspension forks consult your owners manual or link to the manufacturer's web site where exact specifications may be found. It is critical that your suspension forks are operating properly because even one ride could inflict severe damage. All suspension forks need to be overhauled on a regular schedule.

Post ride cleaning and lubing

Playing in the dirt with your bike is what it's all about. Leaving that dirt on your bike is the worst thing that you can do. It makes no difference whether it is Hartland mud, Galloping Goose silt, or road grime. That dirt is abrasive and will destroy your components and wreck the finish of your frame. You will need:

bucket of soapy water (dish soap is ok)
citrus degreaser
axiom gear brush
dry rag
wash rag or sponge
soft but stiff bristled brush
garden hose.

Washing:

Do not use the 100 000 psi pressure washer you just got on sale!

Hose thick stuff off bike.
Spray citrus degreaser on chain, cogs, chain rings, derailleurs, cranks and pedals. Let it work in for a few minutes.
Get at those parts with your gear brush.
Rinse.
Soap up your bike frame and components.
Rinse well.
Wipe down with soft cloth.

If you are extra-fussy. there are frame protectors you can apply. They not only protect your paint finish, but make it harder for the dirt to stick to your frame tomorrow.

Lubrication

You will need:

Chain lube (there are many different types, one may be better than another for how and where you ride your bike).
Pressurized penetrating degreaser and/or lubricant.

Please note: WD-40 is not a recommended chain lubricant.

Chain lubing

The best thing to remember is frequency not quantity!! Excess lube on your chain will attract more dirt and can get on your braking surfaces. Apply a light, even coat to the chain top and bottom, then spin the cranks 30-40 times to work the lube into the chain. With a rag, wipe off any obvious surface excess.

Lubing bike parts

Apply penetrating lube to any pivot area: brakes, derailleurs, pedals and cables. Be careful not to over-spray onto brake pads or braking surfaces.

Monthly maintenance

Clean brake pads and braking surfaces, check brake pads for wear.
With a wrench, check the tightness of crank bolts and nuts.
Clean chain and inspect for wear. A tool is available to measure how far your chain has stretched.
Inspect cogs and chain rings for signs of damage or wear.
Check wheels for trueness and spoke tension.
Check suspension systems for signs of needed repair or overhaul.

Semi-annual maintenance

All bearing areas of the bike should be inspected and overhauled if needed.
Check wheels for trueness and have tension checked.
Derailleurs should be removed and cleaned thoroughly.
All bolts should be removed, cleaned and lubricated.
Remove seat post and clean and lube.
Remove handlebar stem and clean and lube.
Overhaul suspension systems and pivots.
Pedal bearings should be overhauled.
Hydraulic fluids (if any) should be replaced.

Glossary:

Crank arm: The arm which connects the pedal to the bottom bracket axle.

Derailleur: The mechanism for moving the chain from one sprocket to another to change gears on a multi-speed bicycle.

Headset: The bearing assembly that connects the front fork to the frame, and permits the fork to turn for steering and balancing.

Bicycle glossary

Advice From Russ | Maintenance | Helmets | Safety

Photo by Norco

Victoria 650 Hillside Ave Phone: 250-384-4722
Sidney 9781A 2nd Street Phone: 250-656-1512
info@russhays.com

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